Monday, April 12, 2010

Italia

I left the house and got to the airport about three hours early, and I don’t really know where my calculations of time got off. I guess I was just really excited to get to Italy and see Lisa! I had a layover in Frankfurt, Germany, and I was really excited to get another stamp on my passport. Much to my dismay, I did not get a stamp in Germany or Italy… oh well. I had to take a train from the airport to meet Lisa in Milan, and I was confused about how it worked and where I needed to buy my ticket. I asked a man that I saw if he spoke English, and he responded that he didn’t but he did speak Spanish. I was in luck! He helped me purchase my ticket, and he waited for me by the train to make sure I got on alright. I sat across from him on the ride, and we spent the entire time chatting. He is originally from Peru, but he has been living and working in Italy for 20 years. It was fun chatting with him and being able to practice my Spanish. It is a lot easier for me to understand the Spanish of someone from Latin America than it is for me to understand the Spanish of someone from Spain. It was great!

I got off of the train and Lisa, my best friend since forever, was there waiting for me! It was ssooo good to see her. While we were together, we tried to think of the last time we spent this much time together, and I think we came up with our Canada trip that was five or six summers ago. We probably spent more time together this past week than the last four years combined. It was so much fun! I was excited to go to Italy, but I think I was more excited that I was going to spend the week with Lisa.

Sunday was Easter, so we woke up and went to a cathedral for an Easter service. We were excited and expecting an extravagant. Nope. We just caught the last part of the service, but we were let down by it. The service was all in Italian, obviously, but it seemed like any old service. Lisa and I were expecting fancy dresses, stylish shoes, and big hats but a lot of people were just in jeans. It was kind of weird. Maybe we missed something. After that, we headed back to Lisa’s apartment and just relaxed the rest of the day. It rained all day long, so we just laid low and hung out. Lisa got a chocolate Easter egg from a trip she went on, so we broke into that. It was delicious! Nothing was open because of the holiday so we just cooked dinner, played lots of King’s Corners, talked, and laughed. Together again!

Monday was a bit nicer. We took our time in the morning, but we did get out a bit. We went to the Duomo, a big cathedral in Milan that was constructed in 1387. It was beautiful. We even got to climb the many, many, many stairs to the top and look out. The view was incredible! We saw all of Milan, and we could even see the Andes Mountains. We spent the afternoon walking around, doing a little eating of focaccia and gelato, and hanging out some more. Most restaurants were still closed, but a pizza place by Lisa was open. You better believe we went there and enjoyed every last bite. There is nothing like eating Italian food in Italy. Delicious!

Duomo in Milan

From (almost) the top of the Duomo

Soaking up some sun at the top of the Duomo

Pizza!

Tuesday was another beautiful day, and things were finally open! We did some more walking around, and Lisa showed me her university. We had a quick espresso there. (It is weird because the typical coffee drink in Italy is a shot of espresso, and it is typical to drink it quickly while still standing at the counter. The typical coffee drink in Spain is café con leche (coffee with milk), and it is served in a small mug, but you take your time sipping it, usually seated. I missed my café con leche while I was gone!) The grocery store was finally open, so we did a little shopping and stocked up for the week. We bought some supplies for dinner, eggs, and an Easter cake. Yes, Easter had passed by this point, but the cakes were on sale! We bought a “Zuppa Inglese” (whatever that means…) cake for just 2 Euros (about $2.75), and it was huge (and delicious)! We walked out of the grocery store feeling like we were buying food for a party, but, nope, it was just for us! We got home from the store and got ready to dye Easter eggs. Lisa’s parents had just been to Milan to visit Lisa, and they brought an egg dying kit for us, so you better believe we took advantage of that! It was a good night… happy hour in the apartment, King’s Corners, dying Easter eggs, cooking pasta with pesto sauce and chicken, and digging into our Easter cake!

Castle in Milan

Easter Eggs

Our 2 Euro Easter cake that lasted all week!

We woke up early Wednesday morning and went straight to the train station to catch our 8:15 train to Florence. We made it to our hotel without a problem and checked-in. The hotel was located right in the center of the city, so that was a major bonus! We left our backpacks at the hotel and went out to see what Florence had to offer. We did what girls do best… shopping! There was a huge market and we just had to explore it. We spent a few hours walking around, doing some shopping, and visiting some cool old buildings. (I missed traveling without my own personal tour guide… we didn’t really know what we were looking at.) We walked all around the town, which inevitably tired us out. This was a sure sign that we had to stop for gelato, and oh man- it was amazing! It revived us and gave us the strength to climb the 463 stairs to the top of the Duomo in Florence. The view from the top was incredible! It is amazing to think that that kind of construction was done hundreds of years ago. After that, we went back to the hotel to rest for awhile and get rejuvenated before our night out on the town. We took a short nap, freshened up, and went to paint the town red! We ate dinner at a cute restaurant recommended to us by Sarah Bingham, and it was really good! Good food. Good atmosphere. Good company. After that, we did some more walking and exploring, and we ended up sitting on the some steps in front of an old building listening to some guy sing songs. It was quite enjoyable. There was a group of grad students in front of us from the States (who are studying in Spain) that kept us quite entertained! One successful day down…

River through Florence

Eating our gelato

the Duomo... it's impossible to get it all in one picture

Lisa and I at the top of the Duomo... we both have goofy looks

The weather forecast showed rain on Thursday, so we were pretty bummed about that, but we woke up to the sun shining and blue sky. We endured breakfast at the hotel (it wasn’t very good), and then went out to do more exploring. After looking at the map, we realized that we saw most of what there was to see the day before. Florence wasn’t quite as big as we were expecting, but we still did some wandering around. We hit the market again (like typical girls), and did a little purchasing this time. We found a few plazas to sit in and soak up some sun, but then we were kind of at a loss for what to do. We decided to buy some drinks and snacks and find a place to plop. We did just that, and I think we sat in the plaza for at least two hours and did the ultimate “people watching.” It was rather entertaining, and we shared a few good laughs. It was getting late and we were getting hungry, so we decided to venture out and find some dinner. We had a drink and then found a pizza place. Oh my, was it delicious! Just like in Spain, you take your time while you eat. Lisa and I had a good time laughing and talking together. We called it a night after that.

A Plaza in Florence

Italian and European Union Flags on the City Hall

An archway

Some buildings

Friday morning, we got up and got going semi-early (early on college standards). We packed our things and went back to the market. Florence is known for its leather, and Lisa had been eying a bag for the last few days, so we went back and Lisa made the big purchase! We caught a noon train back to Milan and got to Lisa’s place at about 15h (3pm). We were both pretty tired, so we just took it easy. We were contemplating whether we should go out or not, but once we got our sweat pants on, started playing cards, and began chatting, time just got away from us. We decided that staying in sounded better than going out. We made a good salad for dinner, and we topped off the meal with more Easter cake!

We woke up to more sun and warm weather on Saturday morning. We got ourselves ready, packed a few snacks and a blanket, and headed to the park. We spent the afternoon sitting in the sun and talking the day away. (There was some good people-watching going on here, as well!) We got some rosy cheeks and decided to call it a day. We headed back to Lisa’s place and got ready for our last night together. We went to a place called Más for Happy Hour, and then went to a bar to watch part of the Real Madrid vs. Barcelona fútbol (soccer) game. The place was full, and people were getting really into it! It was a fun atmosphere to be in. After leaving there, Lisa and I decided that one final gelato was in order. It is just so good here! I will definitely miss that when I’m back in Spain.

The park was filled with people!

Awesome people watching! The picture doesn't show it well but these are purple pants... stud muffin

I think he was really tired!

Sunday was my last day in Milan. We just took it easy and I got things packed up. I left Lisa at about 3pm to head to the airport for my 5:30 flight. It was so fun to be able to spend so much time with Lisa. Like I said earlier, it has been a long time since we have been able to have quality time together. Throughout the week, we came up with a long list of things we want to do this summer since we will actually be in the same town for an extended amount of time!

Overall, I had a great time in Italy, but I found myself missing home. That “home” to me was not Woodstock, though, it was Spain. While I was in Italy, I was lost with the language, but I found myself thinking in Spanish before thinking in English, and I thought that this was a really good sign! I came to the conclusion that the only things Italy has that trump Spain are good food, gelato, and Lisa. It will be good to get back “home” and get into a schedule/routine again. I start full time teaching this week on Monday, and I am nervous about how that will go. I did a lot of planning between my Madrid/Murcia trip and my Italy trip so that I wouldn’t have to worry about getting things ready while I was gone. My mind had been on vacation for two weeks as well as my body. I guess reality has to start again… until I leave for Segovia next weekend…

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Si, Si Madrid! with Lorca and Murcia, too!

Wow! Where is the time going? Four weeks have already passed, and in some aspects it seems like I've been here much longer with everything that I've done, but in other ways I feel like I just got here yesterday. I would like time to slow down a little bit, but I guess time flies when you're having fun!

This past weekend I had the opportunity to travel to Madrid. I caught a bus from Bilbao, and five hours later I was standing in the middle of the capital of Spain! Igor picked me up from the bus stop, and then we continued our SPAINexperience2010TOUR. We parked the car and started walking around the city. We found a restaurant and positioned ourselves in the perfect seats outside. We enjoyed some good tapas and good people watching (especially people tripping over the curb right in front of us). From there we went to a few more restaurant/bars, and after that had breakfast before going to bed. We had the typical breakfast of Madrid: Churros con chocolate... delicious! We headed to bed "early" (according to Spanish standards) because the next day was packed.

Churros con chocolate... chocolate for dipping and for drinking. It was ssoooo thick and sssooooo good!

We started Saturday out by taking a little stroll around a park, but it wasn't just any park, it was the Campo del Moro (royal gardens) that is situated right in front of Placio Real (the Royal Palace where the King and Queen of Spain live). We actually walked around the gardens on the property of the palace... the same gardens that the king and queen and prince and princess walk around in! So cool! After that, we bought tickets to take a tour of the palace. It is the only "still-functioning" palace that you can go inside. We went into the dining room that is used when they have company, like if the President of the US came to visit, and I think each side of the table had about 25 chairs. The whole palace was absolutely incredible! We couldn't take pictures, but I'm sure my mouth was hanging open the whole time!

Campo del Moro with the Palacio Real in the background

Palacio Real

La catedral de Santa María La Real de La Almudena
(directly across from the Royal Palace- where crown is transferred, royal weddings happen, and mass... gorgeous inside)

From there, we just took some time to walk around the city. We walked through the Plaza Mayor, past the oldest restaurant in the world (yes, it holds the Guiness World Record- 1725), and through the Jardines del Retiro de Madrid, a beautiful park in the center of the city. We took a row boat out on a small pond and enjoyed a peaceful lunch. Igor said you haven't experienced Madrid unless you take a boat out on Estanque del Retiro (Retiro Pond). The artificial pond is right in front of a monument to King Alfonso VII. ¡Que guay! (How cool!) We also saw Palacio del Cristal (Glass Palace), and La Fuente del Ángel Caído (the Fountain of the Fallen Angel) that is an altitude of 666 meters above sea level. We spent the rest of the evening taking in Madrid, enjoying tapas (free "appetizers" with each round of drinks), enjoying street shows in the Plaza Mayor, and watching a few shows of the Noche de Teatro (night of theater).

Estanque del Retiro y Monumento al Rey Alfonso VII

Palacio del Cristal

La Fuente del Ángel Caído

On Sunday, we packed up and set out on the road to go to Lorca. The scenery along the way was incredible! The mountains were gorgeous and the sky was crystal blue. The area is considered 89% desert, so it was nice and warm! In Lorca, we met up with one of Igor's friends and got ready for the Semana Santa processional. It was incredible! I have never seen anything like it. Each barrio (neighborhood) is represented by a different color, and each has a different history tied to a different civilization. There is always an ongoing "battle-ish" between each paso (neighborhood), and there is a lot of cheering and chanting when the color of your barrio comes along. ¡Viva Paso Blanco! (We cheered for the white barrio.) The processional was amazing. There were hundreds of people involved, and it depicted the story of the Bible. People were dressed in costumes, did tricks with horses, and bands were playing music. The cloaks that the individuals wore looked like they were painted, but the images were stitched... by hand... using gold, silver, and silk. ¡Que guay! Then there were the pasos, the floats depicting a story from the Bible, that were decorated with flowers and candles. They were carried by individuals who volunteered to be in the processional. There were individuals who carried crosses, candles, and palm branches because of things they had done on the past year. It was very powerful. We saw the short version... 2.5 hours. The rest of the week, you have to pay 50 Euros for your seat and it is 5 hours long. I'm sure it would be totally worth it. Next year...

Waiting for it to start... "Viva Paso Blanco!"

Semana Santa Processional

Dancing horse

Hand-stitched cloak, some took ten to even one hundred years to complete

Lorca- Semana Santa

Sunday night after the parade we headed to Murcia (about 45 minutes away), where we would spend the next few days. Igor lived in Murcia for two years, so he has lots of friends and connections there. We stayed with one of his friends. Monday was spent walking around the city, looking at old buildings, cathedrals, and ruins, and stopping in various plazas to enjoy the day and have a coffee. It is hard to remember all that we saw and the name of everything, but it was all amazing. The Cathedral of Murcia was completed in 1467, and it was incredible. To think that construction started in the 1390s, there was not the technology we have today, and it was finished in 1467... the detail was out of this world.

Catedral Murcia- 1467


Choir loft and organ

What you see as you walk through the main door- the back side of the organ

There are many places in all of the cities where old buildings have fallen down. People are nervous to purchase the property to rebuild, though, in the instance that they discover remains of an ancient civilization in the process. The city was in the process of constructing a parking garage (in Spain they build down, not up like in the US), and they came across the remains of an ancient Arabic civilization that dates back to about 300 b.c. It blows my mind that civilizations more than 2,000 years old exist under the current one, and there is probably even more under that. ¡Que guay!


Murcia had a Holy Week processional as well, but this was more solemn. Igor and I bought a Coke and some Pipas to enjoy while we sat on a wall and watched the processional. Pipas are Spain's version of popcorn. They are sunflower seeds in the shells, but there is a definite technique to eating them correctly. I have been practicing and am on my way to doing it as the Spaniards do, but it isn't as easy as it looks. We met two students from London who were on their way hitch-hiking from London to Morocco. We chatted with them and decided to go get tapas together. After tapas, we walked back to the car... or where we left the car. Igor looked down and found a yellow sticker just for us... towed. I think I found it more comical than Igor did, but we had a good laugh about it.

The view from our seats... Cathedral at sunset

A "paso" going by... notice the individuals carrying it. The pasos are very heavy.

A paso of Jesus on the Cross passing in front of the Cathedral

On Tuesday, we went to Cartagena, a town about 45 min south of Murcia. It is right on the Mediterranean and was a very important port. There, we got to walk through an ancient Roman theater (Roman Theatre of Carthago Nova). The construction started at the end of the First Century B.C. Because different groups have occupied that area, changes were made and each group had its influence on the area. It was incredible to see an exact spot where Augustus (the man that the month of August is named after) sat. To see ruins that are thousands of years old... I still can't get over it! The submarine and helicopter were also invented in Cartagena. From there, we went to La Manga, another city right on the Mediterranean. On one side is the Mar Menor and on the other is the Mediterranean. We got to sit in the sun and enjoy a coffee right on the beach!

Pillars/stage with seats behind

For the audience

Remains of a church

El Mar Menor- the view we had while sipping coffee (there was no zoom used in the capturing if this image!)

El Mar Mediterráneo

After Cartagena and La Manga, we went back to Murcia and met up with some of Igor's friends. I was kind of nervous because I don't have an outgoing personality, and I had no idea what to expect. I was even almost kind of dreading the evening. It was a blast! The friends were all SO nice and welcoming. Some even spoke some English so we had conversations where they would speak to me in English and I would respond in Spanish. There was lots of laughing and sharing. Our time together started at about 7pm and went until about 4am... nothing to dread at all. It was so fun! By the end of the night, I felt like I had an instant group of new friends. Many of them said things to me like... "next time," or "when you come back," and other things like that. I think I could have my choice of five different places to stay if I ever went back to visit. The people here in Spain are just so open and so nice! I love it!

On Wednesday, we were invited to have lunch/appetizers with two of Igor's friends. We went to their house and enjoyed appetizers with fresh vegetables from their garden and good conversation. I love that the lifestyle in Spain is not rushed. It is more focused on sharing, talking, and spending time with people than rushing around, working, and following a strict schedule.

We got on the road at about 6pm and started our trek back to Bilbao. We stopped in Madrid and had dinner (at 11:30pm -normal) at the oldest restaurant in the world- Casa Botín (founded in 1725). The restaurant has never closed; it even stayed open during the wars. It was kind of pricey, but Igor and I compared it to the Master Card commercials where it lists the different prices of things but ends with something like, "Some cow meat dinner: 17 Euros. Some chicken and rice dinner: 15 Euros. Two glasses of wine: 6 Euros. Dinner at the oldest restaurant in the world: Priceless" ¡Que guay!
At about 1:30am we got back on the road, but started to run out of gas... at about 5am... in the middle of nowhere. We had to stop in a town, sleep in the car, and wait for the gas station to open at 7am. Finally, at about 8:30am this morning (Thursday), I got back home.

Casa Botín

It was an amazing few days. The more that I'm here, the more I love it. The culture is so rich, and it just seems like people have their priorities in line. At 1am on a Tuesday night the bars and restaurants were still packed, but its not about the drinks or the food... its about relationships and spending time together. That's what I love. Some may see this lifestyle as lazy, but I think its beautiful. From a few different people a few different times, I've heard, "We work to live, we don't live to work." It is so true, but a definite change from the lifestyle I'm used to in the US. I've definitely seen and experienced things here that I hope I can carry with me.

... Now its time to prepare for Italy!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Cantabria

On Wednesday of this last week (3/17), I had coffee with Igor again, and we went to Castillo de Butron (a REALLY old castle- over 600 years old) and Puente Colgante (a 140 year old bridge.) Incredible with a lot of history behind them, but too much to type it here. I've got it all written down, though. At the end of the evening, Igor told me again to prepare a backpack and he would come and get me on Friday at 4. I asked him where we were going, but all I got out of him was that we were going to Cantabria (the providence next to the one I live in... just about an hour away), and that we would be going back in time. I had no idea what to expect, but I was packed and ready for another weekend "experiencing" Spain!

We headed towards Santander and met his friend Oscar for a drink and English hour again. From there, we needed to get ready for the fiesta and fireworks in Astillero. We got out snacks, prepared our calimocho (typical of Santander), and took the train to the town. It was the fiesta of San Jose, and there were people everywhere. It was a LOT smaller than the fiesta last weekend in Valencia, but still a lot of people enjoying each others company. After the fireworks, we headed towards the busy streets and spent the night as the Spanish do. After a few stops, we finally ate dinner at about 11, and we had typical Spanish hamburgers. It was on a baguette and had a fried egg on top of it... delicious! We then continued our night going from place to place and hanging out in the streets- where the party was. It was crazy for me to walk out onto the streets with your drink and just leave the glass on a windowsill when you're done. Spain really is a whole different world! There was a band playing in the street, so we stayed there for awhile (with everyone else) and sang and hung out. Igor even taught me how to dance the Pasadoble! Cheryl Burke, watch out! Here I come! We made it back home about 3am (early in the eyes of a Spaniard)so we could get some sleep and have energy for the next day.

On Saturday, we met Oscar for breakfast at 11:30 (yes, 11:30 was breakfast) and then continued walking the streets of Santander going into different cathedrals and other old buildings. Once again- beautiful! We Made a few stops for cafe con leche (coffee with milk) along the way. Santander is right on the Cantabrian Sea, and it was beautiful! We went to a sandwich place and got some sandwiches and started our long journey to our lunch destination. It seemed like we were walking forever, and I didn't know where we were going, but I just kept in tow of Oscar and Igor. They talk so fast and explain things to me, and sometimes I understand 100%, and other times I just pretend like I do. In the case of where we were going, I was just pretending like I knew. Well, as it turns out, the long walk was TOTALLY worth it. We walked along the seventh best beach in Europe to get to our lunch destination. The lunch destination was at the base of Palacio de la Magdalena (a palace that is now a university), right on the coast of the Cantabrian Sea. Again, beautiful! We walked along around the peninsula and made it back to the city. We had another cafe con leche on the fifth best beach in the world! Yes, 5th best beach in the WORLD! (Beautiful!), and continued walking along the coast away from the city, talking, learning, and joking around.

Oscar and Igor are such great tour guides, because they know something about everything. The buildings. The culture. The people. The customs. The plants. Everything. I tried to soak it all in and comprehend it, but it was impossible. Amazing, though.

It started raining so we headed back to the city. Oscar went home because he had to work on Saturday, so Igor and I tried to decide what to do with the rest of the night due to the weather. We ended up going from place to place again and spending the night as a typical Spainard. Tons of fun! Sit, have a drink, talk for an hour, and move on to the next place. Do that for place after place after place. Gosh, my brain was SO full, and getting fuller (?) by the minute, and I loved every second of it! We ate dinner at about 11 again, and I can't even tell you what we had. It was basically a plate of meat that I would never choose to eat, but it was all good! I think we had some ribs from sheep, meat from the neck of a pig, some beef from a cow, and some chorizo (sausage from a pig), and then there was something else. Igor told me that it was some meet from the pig and rice. It looked kinda like sushi the way it was wrapped up, and it was black. I tried it, and Igor asked me what I thought. I told him I liked it, and it really wasn't too bad. Then he said to me, "Now I will tell you more..." It was rice mixed/cooked with the blood of a pig. I was kind of grossed out and took a different option from the mound of meat. I then pointed out that it looked like sushi because of the black "wrap" around it. Igor said to me, "I don't know how much I should tell you!" I got really nervous then. I told him to let me finish eating it before he told me what it was. I later found out that the "wrap" around it was the intestines of the pig. Ew. We finished dinner and were both stuffed, but kept on going... as the Spanish do. After about three more stops, Igor said we should turn in for the night. It was about 3am when we started walking home, but he informed me that 3am is the time to leave the bars and go to the dance clubs. It is typical do stay at the clubs until about 7am, have breakfast, and then go to bed until about 2 or 3 in the afternoon. Igor said that we are working up to that... I'm not sure that I can handle that, but he insists "When in Spain..."

We were up and out of the house the next day at about noon, had breakfast, and headed to La Cueva Soplao, a unique and beautiful cave! We couldn't take pictures, but here is the website if you want to check it out: http://www.elsoplao.es/ENG/default.htm It is a very unique cave in that it has little "growths" coming off of the stalactites and stalagmites, and they grow in all directions. Incredible!

Leaving there and driving through the mountains, we headed to Comillas to see an old medieval town, but most of the buildings were closed. We hit the road again and went to Santillana del Mar, another medieval vilage. It was incredible! It is called the city of tres mentiras (three lies) because (porque Santillana ni es santa, ni llana, ni tiene mar) Santillana is not a saint, is not plain, and does not have the sea. I literally felt like I was walking on the set of a movie- everything so old and original. (It is funny because I say that to Igor often, and he told me that he said the same thing when he lived in Chicago!) There was a church dating back to Century XII. Wow!

From there, we started the journey back to Bilbao, but stopped along the coast for one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. There are a lot of nature preserves in Spain, and this is the only beach in Spain that is also part of a nature preserve. La reserva natural de Liencres is the name of where we were. Igor kept asking me what I though, ¿Que te parece?, but I was really left speechless. No hay palabras. God sure is good!

I think I spent most of my weekend with my mouth hanging open and my eyes as wide as I could make them. Igor and Oscar kept laughing at me because I would just stop talking and look around with big eyes, taking in as much as I possibly could. They said I looked like an owl because my eyes were open so wide! I just love it here, and I am just at the beginning. There is SO much to see, SO much to do, SO much to learn, and SO little time! I'm just at the three-week point now, and I am already not wanting to go home.

Madrid is on the agenda for this coming weekend, and every weekend after that is accounted for. I've already got a long list of things to see/do the next time I come here, which hopefully will be WAY sooner than later!

Castillo de Butrón
Century XIX

Castillo de Butrón

Puente Colgante or Puente Vizcaya
140 years old

Puente Colgante or Puente Vizcaya

Waiting for the fireworks in Astillero for Fiesta de San Jose

The Cathedral Church of Santander, built in Century XIII

El Palacio de la Magdalena, built 1909-1911 for the royal family
It is now a university

La Península de La Magdalena- what we walked around and where the palace was

El Mar Cantábrico

Our plate of meat for dinner

Knocing on a door

Street in Santillana del Mar

Roman Church from Siglo XII

Street in Santillana del Mar

Sunset at La reserva natural de Liencres

Sunset at La reserva natural de Liencres